Kabini – Nagarhole National Park, India

Two yellow-footed green pigeons perch in a jungle clearing, Nagarhole National Park, India.

I’ve been spending some time going through my archives of unpublished photos, and came across a trip to India a few years back where I was fortunate to be able to visit Kabini – a protected wildlife area that is part of the larger Nagarhole National Park in Karnataka.

I was able to do four safari outings over two days into the park, and see some of the local fauna. While I didn’t chance upon any of the area’s tigers, I did see quite a cast of characters.

A sambar deer forages in the thick underbrush of the forest, Nagarhole National Park, India.
A sambar deer forages in the thick underbrush of the forest, Nagarhole National Park, India.

The sambar deer is large and shaggy, typically alone or in small groups. They remind me most of elk in North America, and as seen in this photo, I’ve usually seen them semi-hidden in dense brush.

A small chital grazes on the forest grass, Nagarhole National Park, India.
A small chital grazes on the forest grass, Nagarhole National Park, India.

Much more common in the area are chital – a slightly smaller spotted deer that travel in herds. They are not very skittish, usually seen in more open areas.

A tufted gray langur sits in a branch surveying the forest, Nagarhole National Park, India.
A tufted gray langur sits in a branch surveying the forest, Nagarhole National Park, India.

Occasionally we were treated to troop of tufted gray langurs. I could sit and watch their antics all day, as many of their expressions and movements are human-like. It is nice seeing them play in natural environments verses the multitude of macaques that have invaded some of the towns and cities.

Two yellow-footed green pigeons perch in a jungle clearing, Nagarhole National Park, India.
Two yellow-footed green pigeons perch in a jungle clearing, Nagarhole National Park, India.

This was a bird I had never seen before, and had to rely on one of my phone apps to identify. These are yellow-footed green pigeons, and I was lucky to catch them fly up on a bare branch in the sunshine for a brief moment.

A ruddy mongoose moves silently through the forest, Nagarhole National Park, India.
A ruddy mongoose moves silently through the forest, Nagarhole National Park, India.

One of my more memorable sightings of the trip were a couple of mongoose – a stripe-necked mongoose and (as pictured here) a ruddy mongoose. They were fast and elusive, so this was the best shot I got of the sightings.

At around 8 inches across (including legs) this female giant wood spider sits on her web in a dense jungle, Nagarhole National Park, India.
At around 8 inches across (including legs) this female giant wood spider sits on her web in a dense jungle, Nagarhole National Park, India.

Not to be outdone by the mammals, there were also plenty of spiders to see (yay!) In fact, the lodge that my friend booked for us was known for their variety of spider species and even had an onsite naturalist that gave guided spider tours around the property. Of course, had I known this reputation before the trip, I might have requested a different accommodation.

This is a photo of a giant wood spider who had spun a large web next to our room’s staircase. To say it was huge is a bit of an understatement – it definitely filled my dreams with unease while I was there. The wood spiders’ web can reach 20 feet across from one tree to another, creating a wall of death for unwary insects. These spiders are big enough to catch small birds or bats, though thankfully I didn’t see any of that.

A red-wattled lapwing stands on the bank of a small pond, Nagarhole National Park, India.
A red-wattled lapwing stands on the bank of a small pond, Nagarhole National Park, India.

On a lighter note, there were several ponds dotted throughout the forest, and I saw a red-wattled lapwing on the edge of one of them. Lapwings are members of the plover family which I have photographed fairly regularly over the years.

A tiny jungle owlet perches in the dark canopy of the forest, Nagarhole National Park, India.
A tiny jungle owlet perches in the dark canopy of the forest, Nagarhole National Park, India.

I was blessed with two owl sightings. First a jungle owlet, the smallest owl I have ever photographed. They are about 8 inches long and weigh approximately 3 ounces. This one was perched quite far away in the dark recesses of the jungle.

A brown fish-owl perches in a jungle clearing, Nagarhole National Park, India.
A brown fish-owl perches in a jungle clearing, Nagarhole National Park, India.

Later I encountered a much larger owl, the brown fish owl. This one was perched in a small clearing and we asked the driver to maneuver our vehicle so that the background was as far from the tree stump as possible. This allowed the background to blur away, creating a nice sharp portrait of the fish-owl. These owls can be up to 24 inches long and weigh as much as 5 pounds.

A changeable hawk-eagle perches in a dead tree, Nagarhole National Park, India.
A changeable hawk-eagle perches in a dead tree, Nagarhole National Park, India.

Last notable sighting for the trip was a changeable hawk-eagle. I had seen several of these over the course of the two day excursion, but right at the end of our last day, we got to see this one much closer.

Overall it was a great trip, creepy spiders and all. I’d definitely welcome another opportunity to visit – you never know what you’re going to see in that dark jungle.

Down At The Duck Pond

A wood duck drake stands on the end of a branch overlooking a pond, Salmon Creek, Vancouver, WA.

A couple of years ago, I was in Vancouver, Washington, and was fortunate to visit a little duck pond that was part of Salmon Creek. I managed to get my gear down there a few mornings to see some of the local bird life. Here is some of what I saw.

A wood duck drake stands on the end of a branch overlooking a pond, Salmon Creek, Vancouver, WA.
A wood duck drake stands on the end of a branch overlooking a pond, Salmon Creek, Vancouver, WA.

One of the birds that demanded an early dawn session was the wood duck. After sunrise, they all but disappeared, usually retreating to the dark recesses of the pond and hiding in the vegetation. The shot above and the image at the top of the page were taken just before sunrise, as these drakes were just waking up. I’ve always been a fan of one of the most colorful ducks in North America.

A golden-crowned sparrow pokes for food on the ground, Salmon Creek, Vancouver, WA.
A golden-crowned sparrow pokes for food on the ground, Salmon Creek, Vancouver, WA.
A song sparrow peaks around a tree, Salmon Creek, Vancouver, WA.
A song sparrow peaks around a tree, Salmon Creek, Vancouver, WA.

Next were the sparrows, a fat golden-crowned and this adorable song sparrow that seemed to play peek-a-boo with me as he hopped around a mossy log. In order to really emphasize the sparrow from the busy log, I had the aperture wide open, blurring the background as much as possible. The eye-autofocus tracking of my camera helped me quickly lock focus on the bird’s eye as soon as he peeked around the branch.

A spotted towhee moves across the ground looking for food, Salmon Creek, Vancouver, WA.
A spotted towhee moves across the ground looking for food, Salmon Creek, Vancouver, WA.

Living in California, I was more used to seeing California towhees, with the spotted towhees being much less common. But up in Washington, these guys were abundant, giving me lots of great opportunities.

An american wigeon drake swims through a calm pond, Salmon Creek, Vancouver, WA.
An american wigeon drake swims through a calm pond, Salmon Creek, Vancouver, WA.

Finally, some winter-time ducks graced the pond. I found this American wigeon on a very still morning, with a strong water reflection. Because the scene was so beautiful and serene, I backed away and captured a habitat photo. Unlike the song sparrow above, I narrowed the aperture to add some of the chaos of the water’s edge.

A male hooded merganser swims through calm water, Salmon Creek, Vancouver, WA.
A male hooded merganser swims through calm water, Salmon Creek, Vancouver, WA.
A female hooded merganser plucks a worm from the bottom of a pond, Salmon Creek, Vancouver, WA.
A female hooded merganser plucks a worm from the bottom of a pond, Salmon Creek, Vancouver, WA.

Hooded merganser breeding pairs were also regular winter visitors. On top is a male with his black and white striking head pattern, and below is his mate gathering nesting material. I like the photo of the female as the colors reflected in the water give a feeling of fall.

A wild Eastern cottontail sits in a residential lawn eating grass in evening light, Vancouver, WA.

Of course no outing would be complete without the requisite rabbit photo. This time it’s the Eastern cottontail, which are abundant in Vancouver. These are some of the laziest wild animals I’ve ever seen, with so much residential lawn available, they really don’t have to work hard for a meal.

Deadvlei – A Study In Graphic Forms

The clay pan of Deadvlei contains numerous camel thorn trees that have been dead for at least 600 years.

Welcome to Deadvlei, one of those mystical places on earth that simply takes your breath away. There are a few places in the world that have spoken to me this way – whether it’s 5,000 year old Bristlecone Pines clinging to life on a windswept mountain slope, or morning sea fog rolling through a quiet stand of old growth California coastal redwoods (why do these special places always seem to involve trees?). Deadvlei is certainly one of those places.

Deadvlei is a dry and dusty river bed, located in the heart of Namib-Naukluft National Park, Namibia. Deadvlei translates to “dead marsh”, taking the Afrikaans word vlei, meaning a seasonal pond or marsh. This area once lined the banks of the Tsauchab river, flooding at times of abundant rainfall. Around 600 to 700 years ago, a great drought hit the region, drying up the river. Blowing sand encroached upon the flood plain, blocking the river’s path and forming the massive dunes that cover the land today. The camel thorn trees that grew in this marsh died, but due to the extremely dry climate, none of the wood decomposed, leaving skeletal husks still standing for hundreds of years. Centuries spent in the hot African sun have scorched the remains into blackened ghosts.

600 years ago, a drought dried up the Tsauchab river, 1000 foot dunes encroached on the dried up marsh, and the river was blocked.

In order to do an on-sight scout and be ready for the light, I arrived before dawn. This involved rising about 4 AM, hopping in a hired safari vehicle (with giant tires) and taking the 45 minute ride among the largest dunes in the world. The asphalt road soon turned to dirt, which turned to sand. Low tire pressure, 4-wheel drive, and high clearance are all musts in this area – no sedans allowed.

From the drop off, it was a 15 minute hike into the dunes before I topped a rise and saw Deadvlei down below me, surrounded on three sides by immense walls of blood red sand. The tallest point is south east of the clay pan, nicknamed Big Daddy. Standing over 1,000 feet tall, it towers above everything else in the area.

I did a quick scan from my vantage point before descending to a stand of trees. I set up a composition, and waited for the light.

The wood of the dead trees does not decompose because the area is so dry.

Based on my trip research, I knew much of my shooting at this location would be a study of form and separation. Before I set up for any particular shot, I spent a lot of time looking for the right composition. I needed to avoid unnecessary converging lines, and try to separately my subjects from each other. I would walk around clusters of trees, trying to discern how I would render three dimensions onto a flat, two-dimensional plane.

I imagined the trees in silhouette, reduced to graphical elements of lines and shapes. I moved forward and backward, up and down, trying to find the angles that would convey the subjects in a compositionally elegant manner.

Sun spotlights the side of a dune wall behind a desiccated tree.

The sun moved higher in the sky, spotlighting parts of the landscape through lazy clouds. I looked for new patterns that the light played out across the desert surface.

Tree husks reach out of the clay pan toward the morning sky.

As the desiccated trees moved from shadow to light, their dark forms contrasted against the bright ground and red sand, emphasizing the graphical nature of the scene.

Pulling a three-dimensional stand of trees into a flat plane can be challenging.

This is a place I’ve wanted to visit for a long time. As I was standing in that dusty, dry, ancient river bed, I could hardly believe I was there. I was half a world away from home, and my surroundings could not have been more alien. I truly relish these experiences. Being able to capture an area photographically and share it with others is rewarding, but there is nothing that could replace being there in person.

Gem Lake, Emigrant Wilderness

Last weekend I took a quick two night backpacking trip with some friends, in hopes of hitting the high country of the Sierra Nevada in peak wildflower season. I set my sights on Gem Lake in Emigrant Wilderness – just about the right elevation for flowers this time of year. Having been there before, I knew that even if the place wasn’t in bloom, we’d have a great time and see some amazing scenery.

I like Emigrant Wilderness because there are no trail quotas and it is very easy to get a wilderness permit with short planning. We set out from the Bay Area early Friday morning, stopping at the Mi Wuk Ranger Station on the way up Highway 108. Even though we were taking our time, we still hit the trail by 10AM, plenty of time to reach our 10 mile destination of Gem Lake.

A backpacker hikes along the trail from Crabtree Camp trailhead to Gem Lake, Emigrant Wilderness, CA.

The trail meanders between thick forest and open granite-filled vistas. Most of Emigrant Wilderness is easily accessible cross country due to many gently-sloping wide open granite bowls and domes. This time we stuck to the trail, and made easy progress. Every so often we were rewarded with a scenic vista. If you are not already a lover of granite, after a few hikes in this part of the Sierra you soon will be!

Cliffs to the north of Gem Lake reflect in the still water at sunset, Emigrant Wilderness, CA.

The elevation changes were just enough to tire our bodies by the time we reached Gem Lake. This lake certainly lives up to its name. However, it is very popular and can get quite crowded on the weekend. As it was Friday night, we were able to relax lakeside in relative peace. As the sun set, the wind settled and we got some nice reflections on the water.

Cliffs to the north of Gem Lake reflect in the still water at sunset, Emigrant Wilderness, CA.

The next day we went further up trail and explored Jewelry Lake and Deer Lake. Deer Lake is much larger and Gem or Jewelry, and it was hot enough to warrant a midday dip in its cool waters. This is a great area to take your time and not hurry along the trail. One more night, and it was time to head back.

A winding stream flows into Jewelry Lake, Emigrant Wilderness, CA.

Luckily there were plenty of wildflowers along the trail to keep us entertained. We had perfect weather for our 26 mile journey and everyone enjoyed the change in scenery.

A backpacker hikes along the trail from Crabtree Camp trailhead to Gem Lake, Emigrant Wilderness, CA.

With its easy access and lack of quotas, this is the perfect place for an impromptu night or two in the wilderness.

Gear I used to create the photos in this post:
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Copyright 2017 Hank Christensen